On August 6th, the day of my last post, I started a new job. Not only a new job, but also a move to day shift. I haven't been on day shift since 2001, so readjusting my schedule has taken some time. In addition, the new job likes to develop their employees, so I've spent three weeks out of town for training.
Also, two years of building and disassembling the car, and collecting parts has taken a toll on the space in the garage. In other words- I was getting cramped.
In the time since I last posted, I have made progress on the car, but I've also cleared out some room in the garage, and started reorganizing the heck out of the place. I'll soon be bringing home my english wheel, which will increase my metalshaping abilities.
Anyway, on to some progress!
In the last post, you saw where I'd removed the lower front section of the quarter panel on the driver side. The next step was to temporarily attach the new section so I could see the extent of the work neded to the wheelhouse.
Even temporary, this looks like progress!
The next step was to rebuild the inner wheelhouse, which was just as rusted as the outer sheetmetal.
Getting the wheelhouse back to solid. Pay attention to how close the toolboxes are to my back as I work.
Look at the oldskool torch welding!
The last day of September, I was preparing to head to Ohio for two weeks of training, but it was also the last day of the Ducktail Run 2012.
Im pretty sure this car belongs to Ron Fowler. Ron is truly the real deal with respect to traditional hot rodding. He's also the guy I bought my Olds hubcaps from
Studebaker pickup in bare metal. "Nudebaker."
And we made a nice score at the swap meet while we were there: 1955 (or '56) Chevy steering wheel in very workable shape. Paid about half of what they bring on eBay.
Back at the ranch, I paused the reorganization for a couple of days, simply because I HAD to work on the car some.
If you notice, there's already more room to work, and I'm not even done with the rework of the shop.
Here's a neat piece you'll never see when the car is finished. This is the outside of the wheelhouse. In addition to fixing rust at the bottom, it eliminates the factory access hole, and will provide a bit more tire clearance. I'll need that when we lower the ride height in the rear.
Sometimes the apparent chrome coating finish crazy chrome plating is not sufficiently thick or in the reasonable quality, again due to short slices the producers and may start lifting inside the wheel. When the does happen to your chrome wheels meaning water can to seep underneath and start dangerous the chrome finish. As soon as this starts happens the chrome finish will start to pit and corrode where the lifting is going on. Eventually the wheels will need altering, or re chroming given that they look so bad. Sadly poor chrome wheels are more likely to this happening.
ReplyDelete